Fujifilm Finepix Real 3D W1

The cow is done using wide-tele 2D Advanced mode - see below.

This is a little departure from transportation and road themes. One of my passions as a retired person (actually it started long before that) is 3D photography. It’s almost as old as photography itself, and almost as old as me.

Here’s the main concept: in real life we humans use two eyes. Most of us. Some don’t and there’s nothing wrong with that; it’s just the way it is. Anyway we take in two images approximately 2 ½ inches offset. This allows us to see in 3D. So in order to make a 3D photograph you also need two images – one for the right eye and the other for the left.

There are several ways to differentiate the right and left images and we don’t need to review them all. Two popular methods are red/cyan filters and side-by-side stereo. There are other methods, such as polarized lenses, but let’s focus on these two for this report.

These usually require viewers. Red/cyan 3D glasses or stereo glasses. The glasses are cheap and sometimes free. Another way to view side-by-side is called “cross eyed.” Cross eye means the left eye looks at the right image and vice versa. That way you don’t need a viewer but it makes people tired so most of us print them the right way.

In 3D most of the still photo people work with side-by-side stereo images. This is about 160 years of history. For many years companies produced stereo cards that people viewed using a “stereopticon.” You can often see these cards for sale in antique shops.

Some of us remember seeing these photos and the viewers in our older relatives’ homes. I sat for hours looking at 3D photos of exotic foreign lands. It mesmerized me in those days and I always wanted to be able to make those 3D photos.

I’ve used several film cameras built for 3D and then twin digital cameras. These were controlled by a device that attempted to sync the shutters for simultaneous photos. The name of the overlord in my setup is “Pokescope.”

After hearing about this Fuji digital 3D camera a couple years ago I wanted one. I checked the standard sources such as Amazon and Adorama but they say “not found” when I search on it. I got my camera directly from Fuji.

Here’s a web site with information. http://www.finepixreal3dw1.com/
Or try: http://www.japangadgetshop.com/products/Fujifilm-FinePix-REAL-3D-W1.html
OK, the Fuji camera uses a more modern viewing method called lenticular. It was developed a few decades ago: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nimslo .

The viewer on the back of the camera uses the lenticular method. Inside the camera each 3D picture is processed into a lenticular image and displays them on the rear screen. So when you focus in 3D mode you see the scene in 3D on the camera back. When you take the photo and then review it looks 3D.

However, no reviewer I have read gives this KEY point (unless I failed to understand what they said): it stores one jpeg image and one proprietary 3D image. The 3D image combines the two images inside the camera. It does NOT store both images in jpeg. That means when you bring the images down to a PC (or Mac for you smart guys) you only get one flat jpeg image.

This was a surprise. I would have expected that having two lenses and two actual cameras in the same unit that I would be able to access both jpeg images.

Turns out in order to do that you need to use 2D “Advanced” modes. That’s the way to get the camera to store two jpg images for download (upload?). One 2D mode is two colors. You get B&W in one and standard color in the other. Or “Chrome” and B&W. Or Chrome and standard color. But you don’t get both sides the using the same color treatment.

Another 2D Advanced mode is ISO. One side always uses ISO 100. The other one varies according to lighting. That means outside you might get both using ISO 100. But if there are clouds or shadows one side may automatically (no user override) go up to ISO 400 or 800. Inside the other one goes to ISO 1600. And flash is not available in this mode.

Another 2D Advanced mode is wide-tele. And it’s also automatic with no user override. That means the images are different zoom levels so there is no way they can be made into a 3D print.

In order to get two jpeg images I’ve been using two of the 2D Advanced modes. The Chrome-Standard Color and the ISO modes. Each has drawbacks. Chrome has more vivid blues so the two jpg images have different color casts. However I’m finding that is not noticeable when viewing the 3D print. The ISO mode often produces one dark and one light image. Also not too bad on a print, particularly if you adjust the lighting in Photoshop. But the focus in ISO mode can be different because of the different f-stops.

The flash works in the two color mode so it’s better for inside. Outside in good bright light the ISO mode is better.

I think Fuji should have made it possible to get two jpeg images (left and right) with the same color, ISO, focus, zoom, and available flash. It seems so simple. Maybe the W2.

Besides that it’s a very good camera. I know a lot of people will check it out and get all thrilled about being able to see a 3D image right on the back of the camera. They might buy it only to find out later that you need to spend another $400 to get a special picture frame viewer to display the 3D pictures. I don’t need that. I process the twin images into 3D photos that I can print or share on the web.

There seems to be a PR problem. I don’t see advertising and we still don’t see the camera for sale on the mainstream websites. It may be partially because you can’t show the 3D images in an advertisement. Amazon was confused about it and the only thing you get there is a charger.

This is in the blog version only so I can include several images. A couple are cross eye so you can see 3D without a viewer. A couple use red/cyan if you have old 3D movie glasses. Then the regular side-by-side stereo cards to use with a stereo viewer.

I’m slowly getting used to the camera. I have two 3D software packages that I use for making the printable images. They have similar features but very different interfaces. Let me know if you want to hear about the software. Sometimes I adjust the images in Photoshop.

Now here are the pictures:

This is the Jefferson County Courthouse in red/cyan movie 3D.

This is a tree scene near Lake Boren in red/cyan 3D.

These are inside the Pacific County Museum. I used the 2D Advanced ISO setting. The above pair are standard stereo and the lower pair are "cross eye." Notice how one side is much darker than the other one. But viewing in 3D it is not that annoying.

These are done with the 2D Advanced 2 color mode. One side has a bluer color cast. Again it does not seem to interfere with 3D viewing. In 2D Advanced ISO mode these might have been the same since the sun is shining.

This is the Starrett House in Port Townsend, Washington. There are a number of Victorian homes and everyone is encouraged to keep them in good shape. Recent ferry system problems, gas prices, and Bush economy legacy have really hit Port Townsend hard. We spent money there.

Any questions be sure to let me know.

Al